Is there any real fix except for a protocol hard fork? It seems that running different node software and joining separate mining pools is just not going to do anything. It’s not clear to me that slightly larger blocks are existential failure. I would prefer the block size be reduced, but it seems annoying and detrimental but not something that will change bitcoins path.

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A fork is the wrong path. Spam mitigation always occurs higher up than the protocol itself. You don't change SMTP to deal with email scams. All we do is carry on as before, placing sensible limits at the mempool level. They're still respected it's just there's a new avenue now exploiting the carelessness around taproot. Bocks aren't slightly larger - they should be around 1.5MB and they're just under 4MB. That's a failure.