100+hrs in the water (I didn’t log every session)
Went from foamie to a 7’6 mini mal.
Went from a full kook to still-a-kook-just-not-quite-full-kook
I don’t think there is anything in this world that comes close to surfing.
Only 3 weeks left on this epic adventure before I have to head home to no surf, crocodiles and killer jellyfish.
