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Id wish everyone could self host, but it's a lot of work anymore, nearly impossible according to ISPs and government regulation. I personally use proton mail as my backup/cloud-based provider. I think i can recommend them over other popular options today, but they still manage your encryption keys with reversible encryption. The gold standard is controlling your server imo.
well really anything is better, tuta or proton in what way does gmail give you a good experience?