MOANALANI JONES WONG on Instagram: "I had to wait 2 seasons to post this photo! Funny thing is when I first saw the whole sequence of this wave, this was my FAVORITE moment in the sequence. I think it’s because in this very moment I had no idea if I was making this wave, I had no idea what was happening, my foot was literally falling off my board when I dropped in (that’s why in the first shot of the sequence I have a weird stance), I was moving through each moment only through instinct. Looking at the way my body is positioned amazes me because I look so graceful and calm while 10 seconds before this I was telling myself I was paddling in because I felt like there was NO possible way I was catching a wave. Right when I gave up this wave just popped up out of no where and all of a sudden all the fear left me, everything went quiet and I knew I was going. Without a doubt this is my greatest achievement. I am so humbled and get chicken skin every time I see these photos and rewatch the video (I rewatched probably 1000 times). I get choked up because I know how special waves like this are and how they don’t just happen by chance, it chooses you. One of my favorite bible verses is “Humble yourself under the mighty hand of God, in due time He will exalt you” 1 Peter 5:6. I felt the most humbled I’ve ever felt just seconds before catching this wave. Forever grateful, forever in awe of this surreal moment. All glory to God for giving me this unicorn 🦄 wave, I am convinced my guardian angel was holding me throughout this entire barrel and was like we making this!!!! I’ll never forget that feeling and that view. Right place at the right time @chachfiles amazing capture thank you so much! 🌟 Thank you @surferjournal for the spread!!! Really appreciate it🙏🏽 Ps this is the song going through my head every time I paddle out to Pipeline. Don’t ask me why, Hawaiians just emotional like that 😂"

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